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MAKfam – From Dining Hall to a Baker Neighborhood Staple

byJess Caruso
May 2, 2024
4 minute read
Photo courtesy of MakFAM on Instagram

MAKfam – Meta Asian Kitchen – what started as a New York City pop-up, then a Denver food hall craze, finally has a roof of it’s own in the Baker neighborhood on Broadway and 1st Ave. Overcoming the unknown and obvious challenges of envisioning a concept and opening a restaurant, it persevered and capitalized on the faithful crowds – but really, as diners – we are the lucky ones. 

Eclectic and welcoming

You might remember MAKfam from their days at Avanti Food Hall, where it was a popular choice amongst guests seeking something different, but trustfully delicious. Doris Yuen, co-owner, said “we are so grateful to Patrick O’Neill for giving us the opportunity to be a part of Avanti. There, we were able to focus on our food, flush out our concept, and build our brand. It’s definitely challenging owning our own brick and mortar. At Avanti, if anything happened we had their support and it was a nice security blanket. However challenging and scary it can be, we’ve now settled into the space, and it feels amazing to have our own location.”

The neon lights and the bumping hip hop that draw you in aren’t just a kitschy addition, every detail is a cultural and nostalgic reflection.

“I wanted to create a late ’80s early ’90s Hong Kong vibe with bright neon lights. Our third culture is highlighted by showcasing Hong Kong pop and movie stars that we grew up watching on our table stanchions. The music at MAKfam shows our love for hip hop that shaped our youth growing up in the mid ’90s early 2000s. This is a welcoming place for people of all backgrounds. If you didn’t grow up Asian, you can still appreciate the fun aesthetics and music. I often walk by and see people singing along and bobbing their heads to our music.”

Chef/owner Kenneth G Wan and Co-owner Doris Yuen

The inspiration for the food at MAKfam has deep roots for the chef/owner which explains why it feels as though it’s been here all along. “We wanted to share the food we ate growing up and show the influences of our third culture. We identify our food as both ABC (American Born Chinese) and tradition-inspired Chinese food because our food is inspired by our culture and traditions. MAKfam is a space where other third culture AAPI kids and adults can feel a sense of belonging, identity, and home.“

The menu is both familiar and inventive, intended to be shared, and some items even come with their own stories. The cocktail menu is also a reflection of the kitchen, and showcases much cross utilization. The Golden Pig is a favorite, with pork belly fat washed bourbon, walnut bitters and salted honey.

Doris explains the Chinatown Dumplings – House made chicken and chive potstickers with MAK soy, topped with cilantro and fired shallots – “Chef Ken and I used to source fresh hand-folded dumplings from Chinatown for our pop-ups in Jersey City and NYC. Fast forward to when we moved to Denver—there’s no Chinatown and no one folding fresh dumplings for sale. We tried various brands of frozen store dumplings and no matter how we sauced and plated, it never measured up to the fresh ones we got in Chinatown.

Ken and I had two and a half months before opening in Avanti. We recipe tested every day for a month, tweaking every little thing. I watched videos on YouTube to learn how to fold dumplings. Testing, tweaking, folding, REPEAT for a month straight until we finally tasted a batch that overwhelmed us with joy and familiarity. We call our dumplings Chinatown dumplings to pay tribute to the Chinatown dumpling spots that inspired us in the first place.”

Another fan favorite, spicy garlic butter rice cakes are inspired by “Chef Ken’s time working at Momofuku Ssam Bar in NYC. He told me there was a crawfish dish on the menu that had rice cakes as part of the components. At the end of each fire, some rice cakes would get stuck to the pan and all the line cooks would fight for it. [He] was really excited to R&D this dish and wanted to highlight the rice cakes. The first time I had it, I was instantly hooked. The buttery, garlicky, spicy, and savory sauce coats the oval disc shaped rice cakes so perfectly and every surface area is covered.

The small bites entice your palate with offerings such as the málà wings – numbing Sichuan peppercorns, house made with málà seasoning and house Thai basil ranch. The surprisingly delicious stir-fried market greens – Chef’s choice of veggies with fu-yu and garlic – serve as a savory, slightly salty and tender addition to any of the big bites, or as a side on their own.  The big bites present several vegan and vegetarian friendly options, such as the sizzling SPICY noodles – with house-made chili oil, málà seasoning and cabbage. For a heartier and meaty option, the corned beef fried rice – Grass-fed corned beef, egg, onion, pickled greens, beans sprout and scallions – is a savory and comforting option you might not expect to find. Happy hour is clever and crave-worthy, especially on Mozz-stick Mondays when you can find an Avanti favorite, the spicy mozzarella sticks, all day. The full happy hour menu is available from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday and Wednesday through Friday.

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Doris reflects, “Chef Ken and I always knew that we wanted to open our restaurant in an area that was mixed with residential and businesses. It is the reason we open for lunch and dinner, and also why we don’t accept reservations. We want to cater to the neighborhood folks who are looking for somewhere local and available to eat at!” It’s worth the wait and the return – as many times as it takes – to eat the whole menu – then do it again.

MAKfam is located at 39 W 1st Ave. It is open from 11 a.m. to 8:45 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, and from 11 a.m. to 9:45 p.m. Friday and Saturday. They are closed Tuesday.

All photography courtesy of Jeff Fierberg.

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