In the heart of RiNo on Larimer Street, you’ll find two twin houses — one black and one white. The yin-and-yang cottages have now become home to Beckon | Call — a dual restaurant concept from Craig Lieberman, the founder of neighboring cracker company 34 Degrees.
“They used to be residential homes,” explained Lieberman, walking between the two twins. “But, when they became available, I knew something cool needed to happen here. I realized that I could wait and hope that someone else would do it, or I could take it on myself.”
Although Lieberman already has plenty on his plate with 34 Degrees (the “crisps” cracker company has drawn accolades from Colorado Biz Magazine, Food & Wine and Inc. 5000), he wanted to take his first steps into the restaurant industry.
“They’re completely different businesses, but they have so many similarities,” Lieberman said. “They both start with hospitality and creating a product that keeps people coming back.”
34 Degrees and Beckon | Call may be two separate businesses, but the separation between each 900 square-foot home the collision of Beckon (the black house, left) and Call (the white house, right) is murkier. Although both focus on counter-service, each sits on opposite ends of the culinary spectrum. Call (open now) is a casual cafe serving muffins, breakfast fare and takeaway food during the day and wine bar-vibes at night, while Beckon (coming later this year) will be an elevated, chef’s counter dinner-only affair.
“You look at it, and you think — ‘How do you connect these things in a way that makes sense?’ They’re yin and yang in a way,” he explained. “One is a casual, pop-in neighborhood spot and the other is an intimate, special occasion-like experience. But, either way — no matter if they ‘call’ or ‘beckon’ you — they’re drawing you in.”
To help execute this tall order, Lieberman tapped into two Frasca veterans — executive chef Duncan Holmes served as the culinary director at Frasca, and beverage director Allison Anderson managed Frasca’s bar for seven years.
“Fine dining is what I’ve done my whole life — it’s a very curated, fun experience. But, getting to do both is exciting,” Holmes said. “There are a lot of avenues to go down, culinary-wise.”
Inside the white house, you’ll find Call — a bright, Scandinavian-inspired cafe with bright orange accenting the otherwise white and grey interior. The counter is a buffet of pastries, muffins, sandwiches and hand-written place cards, and across from it you’ll find bleacher-style seating that recoils back into the wall to create more space if needed.
In recent weeks, Call officially opened nighttime service —proving it’s more than just a daytime cafe. Launching with its Full Moon Party, the team also celebrated the artist’s signing of the outside mural called 48 Moons.
The Future — Beckon
Sadly, you’ll have to wait to see what’s waiting for you inside Call’s darker neighbor. Beckon is anticipated to open late summer, with a completely different kind of counter service.
While Call is a spot that begs for habitual drop-ins, Beckon is anticipated to be one that demands a real occasion. Lieberman told us to expect a darker feel with higher ceilings (and what we predict to be a much higher check average). At Beckon, only 17 lucky diners with find their seats at a chef’s counter for a different tasting menu each night.
“Every single dinner will be treated like a separate show,” Lieberman said.
If it’s sure to be a show, just tell us where to nab tickets.
Beckon | Call is located at 2845 Larimer St., Denver. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 8 a.m. until 2 p.m. and again from 4 until 9 p.m.