Makeup Breakdown: “No Makeup” makeup …

In my line of work I see dozens of pretty faces every day. And more often than not, these modelesque, youthful faces are DRASTICALLY overapplying their makeup. Models especially, need to show off their natural bone structure, and dynamic features – so that a potential client can see what that woman brings to the table … in the raw. Or faux raw as the case may have it. Makeup that doesn’t LOOK like you are wearing makeup is probably one of the most difficult skills to truly master – but never fear class! Today’s lesson is going to give you a HUGE kick-start!

Your homework is to study this spread for Vogue UK March 2011, shot by Daniel Jackson with Sasha Pivovarova. Let’s begin.

*FYI – these same tips and tricks can be used by the male population just as easily. So boys, listen up!

1. Wash your face. I’m not going to be too particular here, just as long as the product of your choice leaves you with clean, residue free, skin. (P.S. Exfoliate if necessary.)

2. Apply a tinted moisturizer. Tinted moisturizers are a great tool to looking naturally refined. And it provides that much needed moisture (especially here in DRY Colorado), without laying on top of your skin in a thick film like some traditional moisturizers. Pick a tinted moisturizer that absorbs quickly into the skin. It shouldn’t feel oily or wet, 30-60 seconds after application.

3. Spot correct. If you’ve got the odd blemish, discoloration, or dark circles, NOW is the time to address these pesky problem areas. Use as LITTLE PRODUCT AS POSSIBLE. This means apply in layers, adding just a SMIDGE of product at a time until the desired coverage is achieved. I love the “Amazing Concealer” by Amazing Cosmetics for this job.

4. Avoid Powder. Unless you are super oily, you should avoid using a finishing powder. It will sit on top of your skin, and impede your natural glow and translucency. This is KEY to looking like you’re not actually wearing any makeup. And it’s an unnecessary step, unless your concealer tends to need to be “set” with powder … and in that case, GET A NEW CONCEALER! Use Shine Absorbing Sheets instead. They are a great way to absorbe the excess oil throughout the day, without altering your makeup.

5. Bronzer. A nice warm toned bronzer can go a long way. But avoid anything that has glitter in it, as we aren’t sparkly Twilight people naturally! A subtle shimmer is fine, but disco-ball face should be avoided here. Hit the areas of your face that are highest on your face (ie closest to the sun): Apples of your cheeks, nose, chin and forehead. This will give you that natural sun-kissed look.

6. Chapstick. Your favorite brand will do just fine here. We are looking to moisturize, not super-glossify! Because unless you have a major drooling problem, our lips don’t naturally look wet constantly.

BOYS – you would stop here … please don’t walk around town wearing mascara unless you want to look like Adam Lambert.

7. Mascara. Now girls, this may come as a shock to you … but you don’t actually need 12 coats of mascara! I know! Shocker! I can’t tell you how many women I have done makeup on that honestly think a lash that is 5 times its natural width looks natural. It doesn’t look natural – and it doesn’t even look GOOD! So – for this “no makeup, makeup” we are going to exercise restraint on our mascara. I’d actually love it if your lashes looked as if they were dyed dark, from root to tip. The best way I’ve found to achieve this is a “cake” mascara. This is a mascara that comes in a compact, and requires water to activate it. You add a touch of water, sweep it from root to tip with your mascara fan brush, and let it air dry for a few seconds. The only reason to dip back in and re-apply is if you missed a spot. No second (or fifth) coats required here. I love Longcils Cake Mascara in Black.

So, that’s it! You are ready to fool the world into believing you wake up this way! Now, go knock ’em dead!


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