Picture this – you’re out for a stroll in the Highlands and suddenly hunger sets in. There are plenty of regular spots to pop into, but you’re looking for something new – something unique. Perched on the corner of W 32nd and Erie St. you spot a Japanese lantern gently swaying in the wind – take a peak inside to find a gorgeous four-tier butternut wood bar and a TV playing ski movies – what? That’s right. Welcome to Kawa Ni. You’re in the right place.
With help from his partner Massimo Tullio, Chef Bill Taibe has brought his Connecticut hot spot to Denver – fulfilling the need for “great food, culture, music, an art scene and skiing. When Massimo brought me out to Denver, I fell in love. I also discovered wonderful restaurants with chefs who had a real point of view. It made me excited, thinking, ‘it would be great to be part of this'” Chef Bill said.
Kawa Ni welcomes guests with a lively and bright bar, familiar music in the background, and plenty of options for cozy date seating or dining as a group.
“At its heart, [Kawa Ni] is a playful take on a Japanese izakaya originally based on my need to learn more about different foods and cultures. I felt I needed a challenge and Asian food was already a cuisine I loved, in particular Japanese, because there is so much discipline, specialty training and distinctive technique behind it. So I decided to travel to Japan and immerse myself in the food and get an introduction to the culture, and when we went into the izakaya, I felt so connected to the experience,” Chef Bill explains.
“For the first time in years, I have the pleasure of working with three Japanese chefs here at Kawa Ni Denver. Hearing their stories about food and family have been a major influence on the way I think about Kawa Ni and its future.”
The menu starts with cold dishes like the cleverly named addictive cabbage – sesame, wasabi, white shoyu and shaved broccoli miso goma – a salty, sweet, spicy and crunchy dish with ham, burnt honey and crunchy ra-yu. A fan favorite are the tofu pockets – cool, crisp and crave worthy, filled with kani rice, yuzu tartar and pumpernickel – a traditional Japanese snack “typically serve[d] stuffed with leftover rice as a snack, but I wanted to do a fun spin on them” says Chef Bill. Then it moves into hot appetizers like the chicken wings – flavor bombed with a fermented long chili tebaski sauce and peekytoe crab rangoons – that blow out any takeout rangoon in Colorado entirely, complemented with a ginger-kosho dressing.
The flavors continue to impress and the freshness of intricately chosen ingredients are highlighted with the raw offerings – including nigiri, onigiri and temaki options. No craving is left out as the menu concludes with rice bowl, men (no broth) and ramen (with broth) choices like Chef Bills’ favorite rice cakes – with shiso chicken meatballs and tan tan sauce. “We’ve done many versions of this dish, as we celebrate different seasons, but this version is my favorite. Chef Mune (previously Matsuhisa in Vail) came up with the great idea of adding shiso chicken meatballs to it, bringing it to a whole other level. He transformed the dish to one that is warm and comforting, rich, savoy and satisfying,” he said. The pork & garlic ramen – braised belly, soy egg, buttered corn, black garlic and tonkotsu noodles – is a fantastically familiar yet truly inventive bowl of happiness.
Every item is truly as vibrant and playful as it is sophisticated and perfectly executed.
When asked about the quick response as a hit, Chef Bill said, “I credit our success to the team we have put together, everyone is creative, hardworking and cares about each and every guest experience. Two team members, Lupita and Nico, moved here from Kawa Ni Connecticut and both radiate our mission.”
“When guests come in, they love that the atmosphere is lively and fun with great music. I want Kawa Ni to feel like a hug. We designed it to be warm with every element, from the blonde wood, to candle light, to the music we chose. I also hope people notice it’s soulful, open and we have a heart.”
One thing diners should come to admire – aside from the entire menu – is the pricing. Nothing on the menu passes $24 and with a plethora of sharable dishes Kawa Ni has the potential to be your go to for happy hour, a first – or 30th – date, and group outings – which might be the best option so you can try more food. Regardless of what brings you in, Kawa Ni is a delightful addition to the LoHi neighborhood and will no doubt become a favorite amongst everyone – truly bringing light to the term izakaya – stay-drink-place.
Kawa Ni is located at 1900 W 32nd Ave. It is open from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays. They are closed Monday so everyone can take a ski day.
All photography courtesy of Connor Stehr.