When business partners of acclaimed chef and restauranteur Dana Rodriguez, namely Tony Maciag and Tabatha Knop, decided to step down from leadership at the pan-Latin dim sum concept Super Mega Bien, the time had come to pass the mantle to dedicated long-term employees.
Chef Victor Mena has a long history with Rodriguez, working side-by-side in other notable concepts, including Work & Class, Rioja and Tamayo. When the idea for Super Mega Bien came along, a job offer was all it took for Mena to join Rodriguez’s team as a line cook once again – after a short stint in Evergreen. Although, he quickly became the executive chef in less than a year.
“During COVID, it was really hard. We were very close to shutting down the restaurant,” Mena reflected. “They decided to talk to me and said they wanted to give me a chance to own the restaurant. I was shocked.”
READ: Super Mega Bien’s Pan-Latin Dim Sum is a RiNo Gem
After talking to his wife and sommelier, Jenn Mena-Wenstrom, the decision was more than crystal clear. Now, Mena-Wenstrom oversees the front-of-house through her leadership as director of operations, while chef Mena oversees the menu, drawing inspiration from his upbringing in Mexico and fruitful experience.
The pair have a distinct intention for the restaurant now that they have taken the reins.
“Jenn and I, we’ve been hungry for a chance. We want to keep the integrity of the restaurant – the food and drinks, everything. But we also want to change the back of the house and the front of the house, and really focus on our staff,” Mena explained. “I love innovation – it’s no question. But working in the kitchen industry is a very hard job. We want to make it a lot better for our employees.”
Although the internal culture of the restaurant may be developing, the dim sum style is staying. The chef plans to introduce new flavors – open the menu up to more Central and South America-influence, as well as some Asian flavors – but the passing of small plates will still be the real standout.
The current menu rotation has many dishes of substance, but a few you absolutely shouldn’t leave without trying. The Leche de Tigre Ceviche is a work of art with albacore tuna, creamy habanero-coconut milk sauce, pico de gallo, tomatoes, apples and avocado salsa, served with tortilla chips. The Arepas De Queso is one dish that chef Mena has put years into, and the current version is extraordinary with griddled corn and cheese cakes, poblano-pepita pesto and an achiote crema. And finally, the Roasted Remolacha with Jamaican Jerk marinated beets, goat cheese, ginger pickled cherries, toasted sunflower seeds and chives is something that will live in your memory for years to come.
“When you work so long in the industry, you don’t want to become just an owner. You want to change something, you want to do something good,” Mena concluded. In our opinion, there is no question that the new owners are doing something good.
Super Mega Bien is located at 1260 25th St., Denver, and is open Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m. and Friday through Saturday, 5 – 10:30 p.m.
All photography courtesy of Melissa Champion.