The first thing guests might notice when they walk into Wilde, the Highland haunt that once held Chicken Rebel, is a framed poster of an idyllic beach, its nearly fluorescent waters and endless palms revealing itself to be none other than Tulum. It’s a decoration that would not likely have graced the walls of its tougher predecessor, a city-wide favorite known for its exceptional chicken sandwiches, skate deck countertops and scowling portraits of Biggie and Bowie.
But for chef and owner Lydie Lovett, who was born in England and grew up in Encinitas, California, her new project, Wilde Coastal Brunch, might be more near and dear to her heart. “I wanted it true to my California roots. I do get homesick from time to time,” she said, adding that Chicken Rebel is still alive and well, then hinting at the possibility of an airport location on the horizon.
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Lovett has a keen eye for space and the importance of aesthetics and atmosphere, something she credits to her background as a theatre major. The place still has edge, hidden underneath softer tones and posters reading “Surfs Up Cowboy.” She says that after she closed Chicken Rebel in July, she wanted to maintain the space, adding that her vision came to fruition with ease.
“It actually looks pretty much exactly how I imagined,” she said. “I want folks to feel like it’s summer any time of year.”
As adept as Lovett has been with all things chicken, her affinity for brunch seems even more natural. Several sprawling group tables anchor the festive atmosphere, with DJ Dommy Tumont upping the ante every Saturday. “My goal has always been to have a restaurant with a sense of community,” she said. Wilde is as casually inviting as Venice on a Sunday.
The menu is full of bright, hearty plates ranging from a crab cake benedict to carne asada tacos and stuffed French toast. Though even with the intrinsically lighter fare, Lovett has clearly not lost her knack for serving up the burly. “Plates will definitely be substantial for a hangover meal,” she said.
The food is also fabulous, using locally sourced wild-caught fish and free-range beef throughout. “We didn’t want to just serve shitty food and get people wasted,” she said. “Though we’re not gonna turn people away if they’re having a mimosa afternoon,” she added with a grin.
While there are plenty of options that incorporate crab, cod and shrimp, Wilde’s best dishes aren’t necessarily the oceanic. “It’s coastal in its theme, but we’re not a seafood restaurant,” said Lovett. Don’t leave without getting the fancy breakfast pizza, which comes topped with asiago, mozzarella, pancetta, fried eggs, arugula and a lemon-basil drizzle. For the nostalgic, there’s also a chicken and waffles, brilliant as ever.
“With this, I have the opportunity to build the restaurant of my dreams,” said Lovett.
Wilde Coastal Brunch is located at 3618 Tejon St., Denver. It is open Thursday – Monday from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.
All photography courtesy of Lydie Lovett.