Dimestore Delibar will soon open in the space that formerly housed Low Country Kitchen. The restaurant is at once the kind of stylish bar so indicative of the neighborhood, with a deli counter, a bodega and menagerie of nostalgic bric-a-brac all overlapping to create a conglomeration that works in its intentional lack of traditional structure. The space is a collaboration between Tim Dotson — a Culinary Institute of America graduate who has helmed the kitchens at Adrift and the Family Jones Spirit House — and Chris Fuentes — who previously acted as managing partner for Tacos Tequila Whiskey. The two did much of the construction themselves, which lends the interior a marked uniqueness even outside the already wide-ranging conceptual framework.
Dimestore’s selection of snacks, condiments, household goods and beverages is not restricted by region. Multiple flavors of Pocky sit comfortably next to Twizzlers and Atomic Fireballs. Lighters, Excedrin, Bandaids and Wu-Tang rolling papers have a shelf of their own. Customers can get their food either from the counter or through table-service. In less adept hands things could seem chaotic, here the options make for what seems to be an artfully constructed homage to variety store archetypes.
The large interior — with a 70-seat open-seating dining room — is joined by two patios — one out front and the other situated on the 1,800 square-foot upstairs roof deck, complete with its own independent bar. Sadly guests will have to wait for spring for the upstairs to open. In the meantime, the dimly lit inside is well-suited for cozy winter rendezvous.
The food will remain in continuous flux as the deli case and stacked shelves are filled at the whim of the chef. Some small plates and the signature Dimerolls — sandwiches rolled in focaccia from Trompeau Bakery — will remain a staple, with daily specials and fresh creations being literally rolled out on the large paper menu signs. The Dimerolls breath new life into well-established classics — roast beef, BBQ pulled pork, meatloaf, Italian and eggplant parmesan all receive a well-calculated treatment. While nothing reinvents the wheel, flourishes like a walnut chicharron crumble that peppers the pulled pork helps to reveal Dotson’s ingenuity. In the same vein, the lamb gyro corndog comes with tzatziki, cabbage, pickled golden raisins and harissa. The originality and superb execution of the dish augment the sentimentality. The chicken pate comes with rye toast, mulled berries and candied walnut crumble. On the healthier side, the Dimestore greens come with grilled sourdough chunks, radish, candied walnuts, pickled fresno vinaigrette and cheese.
One of Dimestore’s most exciting features is that it will be open late. In a city that has for too long struggled to develop a strong late-night dining scene, the Delibar is a welcomed addition. Whether patrons are craving a midnight snack or want to prepare a post-work picnic from the location’s hodgepodge selections, the restaurant comes well-equipped. While there is no firm opening date, owners are shooting for sometime next week.
Dimestore Delibar is set to open after Thanksgiving and is located at 1575 Boulder St. Unit A, Denver. It will be open Monday 4 p.m. – 12 a.m., Wednesday – Saturday 4 p.m. – 12 a.m. and Sunday 4 p.m. – 12 a.m. It will be closed on Tuesdays. Lunch hours will be added in the following weeks.
All photography by Adrienne Thomas.