The other week, I had the pleasure of dining at Coohills, a restaurant that, for one reason or another, I’ve overlooked in the past. The restaurant knows how to make a lasting first impression and, put simply, the space is stunning—in addition to western-facing, wall-to-wall windows that allow cascading golden-hour light to stream through, the aesthetic strikes an inviting balance between modern and farmhouse. If you get the chance, be sure to sit at the chef’s counter, if only to talk to executive chef and owner Tom Coohill about his globetrotting experiences in kitchens across the world.
While the thoughtful spring menu boasts several winning dishes, the standout bite comes courtesy of the chicken-liver pâté. The kitchen’s arduous preparation eschews butter—an unnecessary filler according to Coohill—and instead incorporates an abundance of pork back fat to obtain its silky structure. Luxurious, indulgent, and rich, each bite of Coohills’ charcuterie cornerstone is a revelation.