Where: 2461 Larimer St., Denver CO 80205
Pro: Chef Noah French is a master pastry chef. Everything he makes is stunning and it tastes just as good-or even better-than it looks. Add in Chef Troy Guard from TAG and you’ve got a match made in heaven. Come for their desserts but make sure to frequent the place to try out some of their other options. My favorites? The Mushroom Toast for lunch, the Duck Confit Quiche for breakfast and the Citrus Cake for dessert.
Con: Sugarmill seems to have an identity crisis. It serves everything but the kitchen sink. From breakfast, lunch to dinner this place can make your head spin. And with its bright garden themed interior, it doesn’t seem like a natural place for a late night bite.
Chef Noah French, formerly of TAG, was more than prepared for the opening of his first restaurant. For months, he spent every extra moment spreading the word of his new dessert driven endeavor. Telling anyone who would listen, French practically was shouting it from the rooftops. He didn’t slow down on weekends either. On any given saturday you could find him scrounging through dirty thrift shop shelves looking for trinkets and odds and ends to decorate his once be eatery. From miniature cake pedestals to toy car receipt clips, this master pastry chef had thought of every detail… Now on the corner of Broadway and Larimer stands Sugarmill, French’s dream realized. Inside this bright garden themed little eatery you can find all those little items French collected along with an impressive menu. I spent some time with Chef Noah and his team from as they showed me their spread, from lunch to brunch to dinner and of course desserts. Here are my thoughts:
Sugarmill seems like the perfect spot for an early morning breakfast. The space is small but well lit with a sunny diner like interior. I could easily imagine popping in on a Tuesday morning or fighting the crowds on a Sunday to get a table. The menu however is a little different than the rest of Sugarmill’s offerings. Written on a chalkboard, each breakfast item is determined daily. I don’t know if this chalkboard only menu will become obnoxious or if you’ll have the wait time to day dream of what you’re having. I tried a couple of their breakfast items and I think you’ll be doing the latter. Their breakfast sammie and quiche of the day are drop dead delicious. I never thought quiche could taste so damn good. But then again, when a pastry chef as good as French is in charge you better believe your mind is going to be blown. The only con is they skip out on regular breakfast offerings like bacon and eggs, which to me is absolutely essential… luckily that quiche makes up for it.
SM’s lunch menu consists of an assortment of small plates matched with a couple heavier entree options. This is more of a lighter, relaxed mid afternoon spot that won’t intimidate even your most informal friend. Portions are decently sized so order a couple dishes and plan on sharing. My favorite lunch option was the mushroom toast. Made with arugula, truffle oil and a mushroom spread then baked on a soft yet crispy piece of toast. This simple plate really hit the spot. As for dinner, I only had a bite of their short rib tortellini and was unimpressed. But knowing Chef Troy Guard’s work from TAG, I wouldn’t be surprised if the rest of the menu is killer. However I don’t see myself coming to Sugarmill for dinner. It’s atmosphere doesn’t scream late night spot. I will, however, come in at any time of day for French’s desserts…
There’s a reason Sugarmill has its name. Day and night this place is churning out top notch sweets for all occasions. From cookies to cakes to pastries you can get anything you’d ever dreamed of at Sugarmill. And not just for sit down but you can actually order cakes to go made especially by Kelly McGeehan, formerly of D Bar. But if you really want to experience something special make sure to grab at seat and watch Chef Noah work. He will whip up anything you can imagine or even things you’ve never thought of before. Pictured above is the Pavlova Honeycomb. Break into this little globe of goodness and you’ll find freshly churned ice cream that’ll make you salivate. Its delicate shell is so well made it will dissolve in your mouth right on contact. Every texture and taste is special and unique for each dessert. Take the Citrus Cake. It might look ordinary but just by sinking your fork in you can feel the soft velvet texture of the cake press against your utensil. The indulgence has begun even before your first bite. This is the sole reason you have to stop by Sugarmill. Because everything else on the menu is good but these desserts are not just great, they are magic…
Check this place out the next time you have a date or are looking for a low key lunch or breakfast. This New Year’s Eve they are even doing a special dessert called the noahsphere that looks to die for. Don’t miss it!