National Hispanic Heritage Month is an annual celebration in the United States that runs from September 15 to October 15. It recognizes and honors the histories, cultures, and contributions of Hispanic and Latino Americans whose ancestors came from Spain, Mexico, the Caribbean and Central and South America. Denver is no stranger to Hispanic food thanks to a cultural scene that has grown extensively over the last couple of years. If you are looking at options for more authentic ways to celebrate National Hispanic Heritage Month, either of the Fonda Fina locations should undoubtedly hang at the top of your list.
Chef/owner Johnny Curiel found almost immediate success with Alma Fonda Fina in Denver, and can now take pride in a second thriving location in Boulder named Cozobi Fonda Fina that has quickly become another local favorite for locals and travelers alike. When asked how this celebration influences his menus and culinary approach Chef Johnny explained, “Hispanic Heritage Month is a time to spotlight the work we carry forward all year long. It’s a celebration of the vibrant creativity, traditions, and contributions that define our culture. During this month, we not only celebrate the achievements of Hispanic artists, chefs, and innovators but also reflect on the rich history and resilience of our ancestors. It’s a moment for us to come together as a community, share our stories, and amplify the voices and experiences that continue to shape our future.”
The month-long celebration begins on September 15, marking the independence anniversaries of several Latin American countries, including Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua. Mexico and Chile also celebrate their independence days on September 16th and 18th, respectively.
On his process to incorporate traditional Hispanic flavors and techniques into a modern culinary style Chef Curiel said, “On our menus, we have ‘de masa‘ and ‘de nixtamal‘ sections that highlight the use of corn. Corn is the foundation of Mexican cuisine and the cornerstone of ancient techniques and preparation methods that we still utilize today. Corn plays an integral role in both of our menus, but it’s really a focal point at our Boulder concept – Cozobi – which is named after the Zapotec God of corn.”
He continues further: “with every dish, we try to capture its unique story by using the right ingredients, capturing the right flavor profile, and honoring the traditions around it. We try to only use ingredients you can find in a Mercado and use them in a way that you would in Mexico. My creative process involves visualizing what it’s like to walk through a mercado or through the seafood market.” Both restaurants are a reflection of personal tradition and presenting a sense of ‘home’ to the guests – as Chef Curiel elaborates “a big inspiration behind the menu at Cozobi Fonda Fina comes from my family barbecues in Guadalajara. We’d have these big gatherings where everyone would bring a dish and we would all come together around the food that we’ve all been cooking and sharing with each other our whole lives.”
Alma Fonda Fina has a creative and inventive menu as well, with a new unique favorite being the sourdough tortillas – which differ from traditional tortillas in terms of flavor and texture but maintain a similar preparation. “There’s a large French population in Guadalajara, so there are French cultural influences woven into the culture and food. We have birotes salados, which is similar to a baguette, that my mother would serve when she made frijoles, so I wanted to incorporate that into Alma’s menu somehow. I knew I didn’t want to outsource it, and with our kitchen being so small, there really wasn’t much room for a whole bread operation, so I started playing around with the sourdough tortillas. They have this deeper, tangy flavor, and you can smell the sourdough while we make them in-house.”
That said, choosing an ingredient that was so familiar didn’t come without its challenges incorporating it into the menu in a way that made sense. “It took us around 30 tries to perfect the recipe. We experimented with the ratios of fat, flour, and water until we were pleased with the final texture and flavor. Once we finalized it, people seemed to instantly love them. They’re intentionally served with our frijoles puercos, but people will often ask for an extra side to enjoy with the rest of their meal.”
While Chef Curiel and his teams are wildly successful at sharing both the stories and flavors surrounding Hispanic culture – the growth doesn’t lend itself to compromise on the authenticity – and there is no intention to let it. “We have established a good rhythm, so we want to continue to do what we’ve been doing. We’ll stick to our traditions, stay true to our story, and keep honoring Mexican culture. Innovation is important but we have to be sure it’s not getting in the way of sharing our story and traditions. As long as we keep that balance, then we’re on track.”
In addition to building and growing two incredible additions to the Denver food scene – Chef Curiel and the crew were very respectively awarded a prestigious Michelin Star this past month. “I’m still on cloud nine! It’s incredibly rewarding to see our team’s hard work and dedication recognized. This reinforces that we’re on the right path. It’s a powerful reminder of my commitment to my team, to the younger Mexican chefs, and to the Mexican community as a whole. I’m grateful for the opportunity to teach, mentor, and share my culture with others. My hope is that people can see themselves in these accolades and feel proud and inspired by what we’re achieving as a community.”
Hispanic Heritage Month is about more than just the food within the culture, but the culture itself. Eating amongst friends and family – sharing stories – and celebrating the growth that starts at home.
Alma Fonda Fina is located at 2556 15th St., Denver. Its hours are Monday – Thursday 2 p.m. – 10 p.m. Friday 2 p.m. – 11 p.m. Saturday 4 p.m. – 11 p.m. and Sunday 4 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Cozobi Fonda Fina is located at 909 Walnut St, #100, Boulder. Its hours are Monday – Thursday 2 p.m. – 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday 4 p.m. – 10 p.m. and Sunday 4 p.m. – 9 p.m.
All photos by Shawn Campbell.