If you’re not paying attention, it’s easy enough to get lost while trying to find Ukiyo’s door. The twelve-seat chef’s counter restaurant isn’t only subterranean, its entrance is located in the alley between Larimer Square and Market Street off 14th. Opening in February of 2024, Ukiyo’s presence in Denver, however, has been anything but underground. Its two seatings per night running from Tuesday through Saturday usually require 45 days’ notice for reservations. Its seasonal menu changes and special events keep guests coming back for brand new experiences, orbiting the availability of a given moment’s ingredients and the thematic direction to each new iteration of the tasting.
When you’ve finally locked down a date and have managed to find your way to the door, you’ll find the space itself intentionally transportive. The word Ukiyo, after all, circles the notion of being present, and finding pleasure in the details of your surroundings. Committing oneself to that presence, descending the stairs towards the dining room with a welcome pour of sake in hand, leads to a deep appreciation for the space’s design. Warm, soft light casts shadows between the relief of Ukiyo’s bamboo walls. In the hall, there’s a bathroom with one of those mythical Japanese smart toilets. Through the door into the dining room, a gentle curve of shelves acts as the bar. The delineation between the bar and the kitchen is fluid. A countertop draws a serpentine outline offset from the perimeter walls of the small dining room that triples as the chef’s counter where twelve guests are eagerly awaiting the experience to begin.
If you’re not paying attention, it’s easy enough to get lost in the immense attention to detail and expansive nuance driving Ukiyo’s new seasonal menu, Yōshoku. A marriage between traditional Japanese techniques and the influences of Western cuisine, the name also holds up a mirror to its chef. Phraseuth Sananikone – who introduces himself as Chef Paul – has roots triangulating Laos, Japan and Texas. As a person and a chef, his influences and experience are broad in a way that would be daunting for most to cohesively express through food. And yet, Yōshoku is a bold attempt at exactly that.
From the cocktail menu, Tengu – a stir of green tea gin, summer orange, sake and vermouth – showcases its Japanese notes with pronounced tea and balance from the other flavors. On the wine list, Union Sacré Orange Gewurztraminer from Alsace exploding with notes of juicy apricot. Even the drinks span a global influence, but all pair with the breadth of the tasting menu.
To start, Yōshoku leans on the light flavors of Japanese cuisine and the progressive plating of omakase. Otoshi – a cucumber salad subtly marinated with savory sesame and sprinkled with the expressive leaves of micro-shiso. A four-piece plate of delicate Sashimi – Kelp-cured Kinmedai, Tasmanian Ocean Trout, Jalapeno-brined Spanish Mackeral and a cured Saba. Then, a Flight of Bluefin Nigiri – lean and decadent Akami, fatty Chutoro with red pepper and sesame, and a melty cut of Otoro topped with balsamic, garlic and parsley.
“From the tuna’s belly, right into yours,” laughs Chef Paul, seemingly never taking himself too seriously, even while his food presents itself deeply intentional.
Yōshoku then evolves away from the traditional, and towards truly unique intersections between Japanese, French and Peruvian cuisines. A chilled Sushi Terrine folding Ocean Trout, Kurodai, Canadian White Tuna and asparagus into a roll of cucumber and a Leche de Tigre sauce. A Szechuan Ceviche where the tingly pepper and grape tomatoes cut through the fattiness of Corvina. A palette cleansing Oyster dressed with ponzu, lemongrass granita and shiso flowers.
Then, another shift in Yōshoku’s rhythm. The second half of the experience will be enjoyed hot, celebrating robust flavors. A Crab-Curry Chuwonmushi is served sculpturally in an eggshell, held by a ceramic hand atop a bed of sooth, black pebbles. “Don’t eat the rocks,” implores Chef Paul, again reinforcing his dry quirkiness before returning to the plating if his next course. And that course may very well be the showstopper: Hokkaido Milk Bread with PEI Mussels bathed in a Tom Yum broth. Texturally, the milk bread holds up to the soup, while the sweet saltiness of the mussels adds even more dimensionality to the intoxicating Tom Yum. A Bento Box Zen Garden acts as the excalmatino point for this chapter of Yōshoku, eating from left to right Layered Potatoes with a Salmon Mousse, Caramelized Onion Aroncini and a Blufin Tuna Tartlette with White Sturgeon Caviar.
Land proteins round out the pre-dessert course. A handroll of Wagyu, A Rabbit Katsu and a slice of A5 Wagyu seared to perfection explode with rich flavors, draw cultural and culinary intersections and leave a guest completely stuffed.
But not before dessert. If there’s any one dish of the dozen and more that defines the plating prowess of Chef Paul, his Bonzai Tree with a cloudy puff of Cherry Cotton Candy blooming from a Chocolate Tree that’s sprouting from a bamboo Masu brimming over with Bananas Foster is one of the most beautiful desserts available anywhere in Denver. It’s also delicious and pairs perfectly with a healthy pour of Japanese Scarlet Fernet Amaro, for its digestive qualities, of course.
Ukiyo is located at 1317 14th St., #0, Denver. It is open for two nightly seatings between Tuesday and Saturday.
All photography by Conner Stehr