Since opening on January 8 in Larimer Square underneath the also newly opened Not A Damn Chance Burger – which itself debuted to praise on December 13 of last year – Sushi By Scratch has quietly become a standout option in the ever-expanding and surprising-to-some quality of the Denver sushi scene. For the owners of Scratch Restaurants – which run a multitude of stores for both concepts, among others, in a mosaic of cities around the country – Denver was a natural fit for expansion. With a plethora of successful, acclaimed and mostly-locally owned and operated bars and restaurants for a city its size, Denver offers the nationally ranging yet curated restaurant group the textural makeup at the heart of its own ethos. Unique dining experiences crafted “from scratch” do well here because food, drink and going out for both are woven into the culture.
Even though Sushi By Scratch is open seven days a week and offers omakase seatings at 5:00, 7:15 and 9:30 p.m., it does so with a maximum capacity for 10 guests at its chef’s counter. For a fine-dining sushi concept in the heart of Downtown, that means reservations can be hard to come by. With concrete service times, it also means that a guest strolling through Larimer Square late night on a weekend couldn’t casually stop in for a nightcap and a Nori-Cupped Tartare of Bluefin Tuna.
Now that prospective guest can do exactly that. The Whisky Bar – which also provides complimentary canapé service 30-minutes prior to omakase seatings for the chef’s counter guests – is open to walk-ins, first come first served – from 9:30 p.m. to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.
Late-night eats have become a notably absent feature from the city since the pandemic, either shuttering some restaurants altogether or at the very least altering the hours of others in response to a change in demand. But now – at least in some capacity – that demand is back. So, late-night handrolls and cocktails in a stylish speakeasy environment immediately fill a need for Downtown visitors and inhabitants alike.
Taking an elevator down to the basement, a guest emerges into a dimly lit hall of dark brick. Through an archway and to the right, a room of black brick spotted with relief of forest green tile is warmly lit by an abundance of candles melting their wax into sculptural abstraction on a low table and a high bartop. This is The Whisky Bar. And though their all-Japanese whisky selection is certainly well-stocked, they offer so much more than their namesake suggests. For the gin drinkers, or someone looking for something refreshing and bright, try the Bees Japanese – a riff on the classic Bee’s Knees sweetened and soured from yuzu and honey, served up. For someone looking for something a little more traditional, the sake and beer offerings are expectedly well-curated. Ask any of the staff – including the immensely well-educated and hospitable chef serving the Whisky Bar – for recommendations, and they’ll be sure to suggest something unique and perfectly paired with everything on the menu.
To start, a New Zealand Green Mussel skewered as a garnish on the lip of a shot glass, eaten first before tossing back a Tomato-Nigori cocktail that finishes with creamy avocado and uni. A vast and varied flavorful and textural introduction to Whisky Bar, the shooter is a boundary breaking step into a transportive experience that will only continue to keep a guest excitedly guessing what is coming next. Ama-Ebi – Canadian Spot Prawn served raw and chilled – dragged through a dollop of creamy whipped tofu custard and delivered with subtly spiced crunch from puffed rice and shiso blossom.
Then it’s time for handrolls, which are all served generously portioned and cone shaped. The Ora King Salmon is the epitome of sweet and savory. The fatty and melty fish wrapped with poke sauce, onion and shio kombu eats both light and refreshing. The Hamachi evokes the most traditional memories on the menu, sweetened with yuzu miso, added salty depth from pickled onion and a whole shiso leaf, exaggerating the naturally fresh and light. The King Crab is a display of decadence where a more than healthy helping of sweet shellfish is folded with house aioli, salty Ikura and pickled cucumber for bite after bite of rich coastal nostalgia. And if that seems indulgent, just wait for the Toro and Uni which finds a sweet balance between the two sweet and melty cuts with crisp spring onion, umami soy and kizami wasabi. For guests looking for even more options, there is also a spicy Tuna Handroll with chili oil and furikake, as well as one prepared with A5 Wagyu, egg yolk and crispy taro.
Not only filling the need for some spur-of-the-moment late-night bites downtown and some approachably upscale sushi, The Whisky Bar at Sushi By Scratch is itself an explorative, exciting menu for anyone searching for a new dining experience in Denver. So, next time you’re strolling through Larimer Square and are searching for the perfect nightcap, drop down the elevator.
An important note from the Sushi by Scratch Team:
Following a successful trial run, Sushi by Scratch Restaurants has temporarily paused its late-night handroll offering. This walk-in concept, an exciting complement to our traditional reservation-only omakase experience, was met with great enthusiasm. As we look ahead, we’re choosing to maintain our primary focus on the immersive tasting menu that has defined our brand, with plans to revisit the late-night offering in the near future.
Reservations for our 17-course nigiri omakase are available online via Tock. Thank you for your continued support—we look forward to welcoming you to the chef’s counter soon.
Sushi By Scratch is located at 1441 Larimer Street, Denver.
All photography by Shawn Campbell