Evergreen turned 150 this year and the idyllic town just 45 minutes from Denver is more vibrant than ever. While it’s always been a great jump-off site for some of the state’s best and most peaceful hiking, it’s started to become a food destination in its own right.
Recently, fine-dining destination Evoke 1923 has become the shining star of the town’s growing scene. Helmed by chef and co-owner Rand G. Packer, the restaurant combines rustic elegance with a menu that’s equal parts big city chic and unpretentious high country grandeur. “I want to allow Denver people to get out of the city and enjoy the view,” said the chef. Robust dishes that include peppermint-grilled elk loin and rosemary-braised short ribs are joined by more delicate fare like the seared Hokkaido scallops with mushroom ravioli.
The view is certainly part of the allure, but the drive both up and down is an adventure in itself. The view both directions is reason enough to go, and the gentle pace of the jaunt back makes for a picturesque date night. “Once you’re in the mountains, you get to experience it in a different format. It’s different being in the mountains rather than looking up to the mountains,” he continued.
Adding to the historical allure, the original space opened in 1923 as a hotel. It’s since served as a ranch, a practice room for the Colorado Philharmonic and finally in the 1970s it opened as its first iteration of restaurant. When Rand and his wife and co-owner Tiffani Packer took over, they updated to match their more upscale aesthetic. “We just did a bit of cleaning up and making it a bit more vibrant. We painted the walls, redid the wood floors and redid the lighting to bring it into the contemporary,” said Rand. While not quite quaint, the cozy interior features 86 seats, a patio and several intimate rooms for private dining.
Rand is a trained chef who began his culinary adventure at the California Culinary Academy. He’s since worked at the Sir Francis Drake Hotel, now the Beacon Grand, and spent many years working under famed restaurateur Roy Yamaguchi. After moving to Evergreen in 2016, he and Tiffani have opened several spots, including Murphy’s Mountain Grill, The Muddy Buck Cafe and Roasterie, Kiki’s Fresh Bowls and Espresso Evergreen. “They’re all more simple, kinda fun restaurants,” he said.
The dishes, all beautifully plated odes to the best in New American cookery, benefit from Rand’s commitment to high technique. “We’re doing ferments, miso paste and our own Persimmon miso. I carry the seasons over by fermentation process,” he said. “Our style here is we try to utilize our products through fermentation or drying. Extra meat bits are used for stock. Fat that comes off from there becomes saute.” The team plans to switch things up with the half season with two to four new items per menu, as well as running weekly specials that highlight seasonal ingredients.
While somewhat sticking to classics, the plates are worldly. The crispy sesame-fried shrimp comes with house kimchi and a sweet ginger yuzu bibimbap aioli, while the matcha dumplings see house-made gnocchi topped with bok choi, bunashimeji mushrooms, heirloom tomatoes, truffled miso butter and dashi tonjiru broth, all reminiscent of Rand’s time working with Yamaguchi. Larger dishes, like the Au Poivre grilled bluefin tuna steak with wilted spinach and bleu cheese gratin, are all filling portions.
In late summer, the Packers are setting their sights past Evergreen. La Rocca Rossa, an upscale Italian steakhouse with flair from across Europe, is set to open in Morrison in early August.
Evoke 1923 is located at 27376 Spruce Ln., Evergreen. It is open Wednesday – Monday from 5 – 9 p.m.
All photography by Ryan Dearth
