Walking through the sunbathed outer bar and à la carte dining room of Denchu – a sophisticatedly detailed space built by Sushi Den chef and owner, Toshi Kizaki and shared between his new self-titled omakase and Chef Justin Fulton’s Margot – a guest’s first impression of either restaurant is architectural. Something about the unrelenting focus on the design of everything from the space to the food itself feels apropos for two chefs whose primary connection to one another is the artisan – Kazu Oba – that hand-makes each restaurant’s plateware. Lightly treated wood panel detailed by overhead lighting leads from the entry corridor, through an open dining room filled with community tables, to a black limestone bar back meticulously spaced with top-shelf bottles. Floor-to-ceiling windows face the always evolving but still quaint South Pearl Street, while skylights flood the atrium with sunsetting warmth as both concepts open. For now – during Summer – that golden light extends well into later seatings.
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For those opting out of Margot’s à la carte – Denchu offerings, which range from raw bites to larger dishes, the eight-seat Chef’s Counter is where Fulton is artfully serving his rotating tasting menu atop the plates of Oba’s delicate craftsmanship. Though that locally derived tasting menu evolves with the seasons and with a given find at market, Margot will consistently bridge the gap between French farmhouse comfort and modern seasonal elegance. In that equilibrium is where Chef Justin Fulton thrives.
For years, balancing work between Mercantile and Coperta, he operated what was then his Sunday-only pop-up concept out of Chef Paul C. Reilly’s Uptown eatery, while occasionally also taking up at since-closed Noisette in the Highlands. Now – if only eight seats and the fluctuating volume of à la carte service – he has his own space for the operation, and Margot has the entirety of his focus.
Focus, attention and detail are present in everything Chef Fulton plates. Attention to detail and intentionality intersect with local seasonality and refined technique to drive Margot’s every course. To start, a trio of colorful and vibrantly light bites. A Smoked Trout Tartlette balances its salt with the blooms of edible flowers, the Pâté Grand-Mère nourishes nostalgia with an arrangement of pork, chicken liver and pistachio, while a Chickpea Panisse boasts surprising but welcomed sweetness. Finding balance in the triplet of wide-ranging introductions sets the table for the broad yet balanced vision of the courses ahead.
A Tuna Tartare balances the fattiness of its cut with the crisp freshness of snap peas. Three variations of coriander are delicately seasoned. Then, juicy, earthy and sweet Heirloom Tomatoes are dressed with the spice of ginger and the bitterness of treviso before being loaned some saltiness from French Feta. Local Asparagus, cooked to the textural perfection that can be so elusive to the vegetable, is salted with anchovy, lightened with marigold and given even more textural depth by breadcrumb.
Chef Fulton and his team continue calmly, quietly churning out artfully plated dish after dish, working through the lighter fish and vegetable focused courses towards heartier and homier plates. Sourdough Kinship Toast, still soft and chewy when bitten into, is layered with whipped ricotta, and kept light and composed with crushed peas and mint. The Parisian Gnocchi feels robust and decadent from the roasted garlic and mushroom dashi. And the fluffy Olive Oil Brioche is some of the best bread in Denver – worthy of its place and own course on the menu.
And yet if any dish through the tasting steals the spotlight and tells the Margot story clearest, it’s the Grilled Zucchini. “We’re just now getting into that time of year where the produce is especially exciting,” enthusiastically explained Fulton as he placed the plate on the counter. “This is one of those plates that will only be here as long as we can get the best product,” he continued, reinforcing the locally seasonal ethos at the heart of Margot’s identity. But, if that seasonal particularity of the Grilled Zucchini – popping with salty trout roe, spiced with purple basil and granted immense depth from green curry – is any indication, whatever vegetable is next in season is sure to bring something equally unique and exciting to Margot’s menu.
Not to be overshadowed, the 14-Day Dry-Aged Duck Breast stamps the savory offerings made melty and decadent with truffle jus, yet still proving nimble, plated with thin and sweet mokum carrots. A crumbly, rich British Cheddar then acts as mid-course between the savory and the sweet, drizzled with honey that’s been house-infused with foraged spruce needles.
To finish, a Dark Chocolate Torte served alongside a Beet & Miso Sorbet, expectedly sensible, tethered between intense earthiness and natural sweetness. Yet another pair of plates that exude and reinforce the balance that defines Margot’s Chef’s Counter experience at large. It’s a balance that hand-in-hand with a celebration of local and seasonal ingredients ensures that each guest experience – regardless of the given changes to a menu each service – proves an exciting, unique mosaic.
Margot is located at 1551 S Pearl St., Denver. Its hours are Tuesday – Thursday 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday – Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.
All photography by Jeff Fierberg