Redefining Omakase – Sushi by Scratch Comes to Denver

Photo Courtesy of Suzi Pratt

In the heart of downtown Denver, a new chapter in fine dining begins with the opening of Sushi by Scratch – an exclusive omakase restaurant redefining both luxury and artistry. Omakase is a Japanese dining experience where guests entrust the meal to the chef. Nestled in Larimer Square, this intimate 10-seat venue promises a transformative culinary journey, blending traditional Japanese techniques with modern innovation.

Photo courtesy of Sushi by Scratch on Instagram

Denver may be landlocked, but its residents’ love for sushi and seafood is no secret. With several options across the city ranging from low key sushi to upscale spots that offer private dining and omakase style experiences – Sushi by Scratch should fit right in – but is also sure to stand out. Michelin-starred Chef Phillip Frankland Lee and Chef Margarita Kallas-Lee have brought their concept to Larimer Square – nestled below the newly opened – and from the same restaurant group – Not A Damn Chance Burger. With other locations such as Los Angeles and Chicago, the question arises: why Denver?

“When looking at where we want to open a concept, it’s important to the whole team to select a location that we all are genuinely excited to immerse ourselves in. Denver fit the bill perfectly. From the Aspen Food & Wine Festival every summer to the Michelin Guide coming to town recently, we knew that energy aligned with our goals perfectly. Denver is just a cool town, simple as that. We can’t wait to get to know the local community and their stories even better,” Chef Phillip explains.

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Chef Phillip Frankland Lee proclaims to have fallen in love with sushi by the age of five. “By seven, it was all I wanted to eat. At 13, I bought my first book on sushi. It’s safe to say that sushi and omakase have been lifelong passions of mine. Over the past two decades, I’ve immersed myself in studying the rich traditions and culture of sushi. When I set out to create the Sushi by Scratch Restaurants concept, my goal was to honor the 200+ year history of sushi—not just the modern version most people know, centered around raw fish.”

“While our approach may seem unconventional to some, what we do each night at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants is, in many ways, an homage to the traditional roots of sushi. Omakase directly translated literally means “I leave it up to you.” So by crafting an omakase-style experience at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants, we want our guests to trust us in bringing them on a journey throughout both my experience as a chef and the rich history of sushi across the world.

The restaurant will offer an unparalleled, 17-course dining experience where each course is a work of art and every bite tells a story – but again, back to the landlocked situation – sourcing the highest quality and freshest ingredients is always a top task for stand out restaurants. Chef Phillip ensures, “Most of our seafood is flown in directly from Tokyo’s iconic Toyosu Fish Market. For other ingredients, we are really looking forward to being able to connect with Denver and Colorado’s amazing artisans and purveyors, whether that’s sourcing at the local farmer’s market or working directly with other local organizations. We’re excited to have Colorado’s food scene influence our future menus. Beyond that, we make everything in-house including our soy sauce, yuzu koshhō, and milling our own rice.

With only 10 seats at the chef’s counter and a meticulously curated seasonal menu, Sushi by Scratch aims to create an immersive and unforgettable connection between the diner, the chef, and the ingredients. From the moment guests step inside, they are transported to a realm where precision, elegance, and unique flavor reign supreme.

“Come ready to have fun! There is a stereotype in dining that the more “serious” a dining experience is the less fun it is and vice versa. We strive to be both. Dining with us is interactive, blending the precision of fine dining with an engaging, relaxed atmosphere.” Very interactive indeed – as guests sit directly at the chef’s counter “to get up close with the artistry and craft behind each dish, creating a sense of camaraderie. Come with an open mind and an open palate – we pay homage to many familiar flavors and techniques in sushi but there will always be some fun surprises thrown in. We also welcome all guests to arrive up to 30 minutes before their reservation for a complimentary cocktail and canapes reception. It’s the perfect way to settle in before two hours of some of the most top-tier sushi out there.”

Guests can expect to indulge in innovative nigiri such as a childhood homage with one of its signature bites Hamachi, which is “painted yellow with sweet corn pudding and topped with breadcrumbs made from my wife’s sourdough, and topped with our homemade soy sauce, and freshly grated wasabi root.” Or the aged Blue Fin Tuna served delicately with Lee’s homemade soy sauce and fresh wasabi. Delight in an Unagi that’s fried crispy in rendered bone marrow and dressed with poblano yuzu kosho, soy sauce, ponzu, lemon, and sea salt.

Farewell Tea Ceremony. Photo by Suzi Pratt

The beverage program at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants showcases a thoughtful selection of Japanese sakes and whisky’s. Paying homage to the history of sushi and Japanese culture remains a main focus for Chef Phillip and his team though they will not shy away from “some new-school techniques. When sushi restaurants first began popping up around Japan in the 1960s and 1970s, the chefs pioneering this movement were influenced by their backgrounds – a chef who was from a warmer region of Japan would prepare dishes wildly different from a chef who grew up in a cooler region of Japan. My childhood in LA influences how we prepare meals. Growing up, we always had soy sauce and wasabi in the pantry, but we would also go down the street to enjoy cups of elote from the local vendors.”

And while the concept has some staples you will find across its several locations, Chef Phillip notes, “the local flavors and ingredients in the area are definitely going to influence our menu moving forward. I am looking forward to working with our Denver Head Chef, Munetoshi Taira. He was born and raised in Japan but has called Colorado home for over 10 years. Just as my experiences have shaped the opening menu, his unique experiences will shape the dining experience moving forward.”

The tasting menu can be accompanied by a cocktail pairing for an additional cost. Three different tiers will be offered ranging from $105-$125. The first includes three sakes, two micro cocktails and a beer. Option two includes six pours of sake and the third option includes six pours of Japanese Whisky. Beverages are also available a la carte.

As Denver’s dining scene continues to evolve, Sushi by Scratch promises to set a new standard for excellence, inviting diners to indulge in a feast that’s as much about theater and craftsmanship as it is about taste. Every bite is intended to be a testament to the chef’s artistry and past and every course a moment of discovery in tasting something new and extraordinary. Treat yourself or someone you love to an unforgettable dining experience that transcends the standard of sushi and everyday expectations – venturing above and beyond into culinary brilliance – sure to linger long after the final bite.

Sushi by Scratch is located at 1441 Larimer St, Denver. Reservations are available online, starting at $195/person plus tax and service charge, with additional add-ons and beverage pairings available. Its hours are Wednesday – Sunday, with three nightly seatings at 5:00 p.m., 7:15 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. Reservations are released on the first of the month at 11 a.m. for the following month’s availability.