Concourse Restaurant Moderne opens this Wednesday, helping set the tone for Stapleton’s new dining scene. Chefs Lon Symensma (of ChoLon and Cho 77) and Luke Bergman are giving the neighborhood a restaurant that offers quick bites in the morning and slightly more formal fare in the evening. Located at Eastbridge Town Center, this all-day eatery offers a richly varied menu — filled with European-style cooking with locally-sourced ingredients and pasture-raised meats.

The Space

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Inside Concourse you’ll find a 3,000 square foot interior that offers bountiful natural light. A distinctly free flowing feel characterizes the dining room. The curved wooden ceiling was inspired by London Heathrow Airport and is reminiscent of Paris’ Charles De Gaulle’s newest terminals. Stapleton once hosted Denver’s airport before DIA opened in 1995, and Chefs Symensma and Bergman wanted to honor that history in the name and design of the restaurant. “Concourse” is defined as an act of coming together and merging — the experience and location of the restaurant mirrors this notion as it is located in the neighborhood’s central business center.

The Food & Drink

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For the dinner menu, dishes delight with rich flavors and pronounced textures. Many of the entrées come in half or full orders and are always meant to be shared. For those of you that are pasta traditionalists — the al dente spinach carbonara ($9/18) is a must — the pancetta and parmesan make for a satisfying and beautiful dish. The wagyu beef tataki ($14) has perhaps the best aesthetic of anything on the menu. The smoked egg mayo and elegant potato chips in the dish give an impressive array of textures and tastes.

The bacon & octopus risotto balls($9) are served in a deep dollop of tomato butter. It is destined to be a favorite, especially for Japanese food lovers who may recognize the similarity to Takoyaki Octopus balls. For something hardy yet nutritious, try the duroc pork loin($20). This dish is served on a bed of black Venetian rice (also known as forbidden rice), fava beans and pueblo chili powder. The cut of pork isn’t dry in the least.

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For dessert, try the velvet cheesecake ($8). It’s dusted with berry powder, has a walnut-buckwheat crust and is served on fromage blanc ice cream. The cocktails are richly creative— the black bullet ($10) has bullet whiskey, blackberries and vanilla bean. This drink packs a punch with flavor and alcohol content. For something summer-y, try the strawberry fennelade ($10) — it has Anders’ Vodka, strawberries and fennel seed. The highlight is the happy hour, though — from 3:30 – 5:30 p.m. Monday – Friday, buy one glass of wine and get the second for just $1.

Happy Hour is best enjoyed on the expansive patio, which offers diners the opportunity to enjoy the peace and quiet of Stapleton. With summer on its way, this spot has charming potential. Expect breakfast to feel quick and casual. As the day goes on, the fare and service become increasingly formal from lunch to dinner. The hours for breakfast, brunch and dinner may change over the coming months.

Concourse Restaurant Moderne is located at 10195 East 29th Drive, Suite 140, Denver. Concourse is open for breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. – 2 p.m. with lunch service starting on May 22. Daily dinner service begins at 5 p.m. and ends at 9 p.m. Sunday- Tuesday, 10 p.m. Wednesday – Thursday and 11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Brunch service will begin on May 20 on Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

 All Photography by Meg O’Neill.

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