What: EDGE at the Four Seasons
Where: 1111 14th Street, Denver
Pros: Edge offers a classy setting to see and be seen while enjoying top-notch service and food. Don’t miss the appetizers and bustling bar scene, and don’t leave without trying the crave-worthy desserts.
Cons: This isn’t really a con, but do make sure dress somewhat presentable (a.k.a. lose the ratty jeans and torn flannel) as there is a smart-casual dress code.
There are a lot of new things happening lately at EDGE at the Four Seasons. To start, a new executive pastry chef, Ryan Schmitt, who has been gracing the desserts here with his refined presentations and elegant flavors. The restaurant has also just debuted new spring menu that highlights some seasonal produce and lighter flavors.
At a recent menu tasting, it was clear that spring flavors were in full swing for the salad course. The fresh arugula salad included razor-thin shavings of earthy asparagus dressed in a super-flavorful truffle vinaigrette. The summery heirloom tomato panzanella salad is another new highlight, featuring burrata, melon, and basil.
All of the new spring appetizers are absolutely stunning. The seared foie gras is served with five types of onions, balsamic, and a crisp bacon brittle is a great example of Chef Meredith Manee’s Italian-cooking roots. The beef tartare (made with grass-fed Colorado beef) is lightened up with soy and scallion, served on a slice of pickled cucumber instead of the traditional bread.
As for the mains, the pan-seared halibut is most definitely a winner, served with on-trend accompaniments like cauliflower puree, toasted quinoa, and an addicting harissa sauce. While I enjoyed the 120 day dry-aged pork chop , the accompanying pea and apricot fell short as complementary flavors.
At the tasting, I got to try just about every dessert on the revamped menu. While a few of the signature desserts haven’t left the menu, some have been re-imagined with different flavor profiles, and many are Chef Schmitt’s brand new contributions.
One of the new offerings is the lemon crème brûlée which combined a few different desserts into one. The pistachio sponge cake on the bottom of the creamy lemon custard was superb, and the visually-appealing meringues on top added a bit of crunch (though, not much in the way of flavor).
Another new spring offering is the strawberry rhubarb tart, which was stunning with it’s pink and white layers. It had pronounced strawberry vanilla flavor and some welcome acidity from the rhubarb.
The unique peanut butter crunch bar falls somewhere between cake and candy, with it’s crunchy texture that is distantly reminiscent of Kit-Kat bars but obviously more refined. The contrasting textures of the crunchy element and the mousse are extremely satisfying. Served with salted peanuts and chocolate sauce, this dessert is a elegant take on accessible, child-friendly flavors.
The banana nougat was another example of this, with a moist honey cake, soft banana and almond nougat, and a deliciously spiced caramel sauce that I found to be a refreshing change of pace from the salted caramel that is so ubiquitous right now.
I think my overall favorite dessert of the night, however, was the ever-popular EDGE signature, the sticky toffee pudding. Served warm with a scoop of Stranahan’s whiskey ice cream and turbinado sugar sauce, this is one dessert truly worth every calorie.
The spring menu at EDGE continues to deliver on its “progressive American steakhouse” vision, with plenty of seafood and light, vegetable-driven dishes that prove it’s more than your typical fine-dining steakhouse. All the better, as you’ll be able to save room for the can’t-miss desserts. Through a constantly evolving seasonal menu, EDGE strikes a balance between timeless and trendy that makes it consistently one of Denver’s top restaurants.